"That's
something you'll see everywhere in Latin America", said my first
Couchsurfing host in Cusco. "An upper-class neighbourhood can turn into
a slum just from one street to another."
Often,
however, the change is even more drastic: you see it from one house to another.
Coming from
such a different culture with such different problems, it's difficult to
understand the issues here. I can't tell if people are starving or how severe
of a problem child labour is. I can't say whether poverty always means a dangerous
neighbourhood, or whether a dangerous neighbourhood always means poverty. There
are teenage street vendor girls with their sulky teenage faces glued to their
smartphone screens, and middle-aged street vendor mothers with their three
little children playing in the dirt next to their stands.
What I
noticed already in Lima, however, is that it's as if there were two completely
different economies existing side by side within the same city or the same
country. That's possibly the case in Europe, too, but the differences are not
quite that extreme.
Here, there's the first economy, where a person can buy a bagful of groceries from a supermarket for about 12 euros, take a city bus for some 40 cents and a taxi for perhaps 4 euros, go to a yoga class for 6 euros and buy a fresh fruit smoothie for 2 euros.
And then
there's the other economy. For those people, taking a bus would be too
expensive, so they walk. They buy their groceries from a market where they can
choose the cheapest vegetables and haggle the prices down. They might have a
fresh fruit smoothie when it's mango season and they walk past a tree that
belongs to no-one. For those people, the other economy doesn't exist. The cable cars might float above their homes night and day, but they belong to another world beyond their reach.
Still,
those people are not unemployed, or alcoholic, or homeless. They have jobs and
they work long hours, and their children presumably go to school just like
everybody else's. A bit of public education just isn't enough. The system we
have in place works the same way here as it does everywhere: those who have
some wealth tend to have it easier to gain more.Those who have none have it much harder ever to gain any.
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